Common Car Battery Issues That Cause Starting Problems

The alternator has a centrally rotating set of coils powered from the field terminal. As this rotor turns, it drags a magnetic field past the stationary coils that surround it. This magnetic field generates alternating current within these stationary coils, which then passes through a grid of one-way valves diodes to produce the DC current useful to automotive applications. The voltage output is governed by the amount of current in the field circuit, and is controlled by the Voltage Regulator. Current is fed to the battery and other power absorbers through the large Bat terminal on the back of the alternator. A ground connection on the alternator case completes the electrical circuit. There is also a Stator terminal on the alternator, but it is not used on the SC.

Common Car Battery Issues That Cause Starting Problems

Philly area Not a fan of 1-wire alternators in a car that’s going to see a lot of idling and low speed operation. They’re easy to hook up, but their downfall is a dramatic fall-off in output at low RPMs plus they can’t run the idiot light on the dash, which I kind of like to keep functional. I think the 12SI style alternator originally came out around A Remy remanufactured or equivalent is a literal bolt-in. Even your existing electricals will plug right on and the terminals are all still in the exact same location on the alternator case.

It may be necessary to fabricate brackets if they are not available from a speed shop or junkyard. Be certain the belt lines up straight in the pulleys. Disconnect the negative cable from the vehicle battery. Connect a gauge wire from the output stud on the alternator back to the positive battery terminal.

What you are experiancing is the alternator feeding back into the ignition. I’m not familar yet with the starting and charging system on the S30, but I am very familar with the GM starting and charging systems. The stud on the back of the alternator is the charge stud and must be connected to the battery. In older GMs this stud was attached to the starter batter terminal through a fuseable link, newer GMs it is attached to the underhood fuse box through a fuse to the main battery input terminal.

The Red wire is a “sense” wire that the regulator uses to sense the actual charge voltage to adjust the alternator output. The best place to connect this is also to the battery or same connection point as the main charge lead starter battery terminal on older GMs. The brown wire is what turns the alternator “on”, and is usually turned on through a “charge” light, the light in the guage cluster that shows your actualy charging. This needs to be through an ignition switch wire that is NOT the true ignition wire.

Alternator questions

Shipping weight is pounds. Optional 20 HP motor. Electronic variable speed control inverter with speed range controlled by potentiometer. Speed range from approximately to 7, R.

SI alternators use a three wire hookup, with the large battery stud, a brown exciter wire and smaller red voltage sense wire. The brown wire is what would typically be tied to a charge warning lamp, and is responsible for exciting the charging system.

How to Understand Alternator Wires by Kurt Schanaman Automobile alternators perform more duties than simply recharging a car’s battery. A car’s battery only provides enough power to operate the vehicle’s starter when starting. Once the vehicle is running, pulleys on the running engine rotate a belt connected to the alternator, which then causes the internal coils of the device to generate power to replenish the battery for the next start and provide ongoing electricity to operate the vehicle’s accessories and lights while in operation.

Since the s, alternators have been of the 3-wire type. Inspect the back and sides of the alternator to locate the two wire connectors. One of the connectors is typically a threaded bolt protruding from the back the opposite end from the pulley that a wire with a boot on the connecting end is snapped onto. Look for a separate wire with a wire terminal on the end. It is the only other separate wire without a “boot” on the end of it, but rather a round slide-on terminal that slides over a bolt connected to the vehicle’s frame.

This connection is “Ground” and completes the negative – voltage side of the electrical circuit. The terminal is slid over the threaded post of a bolt and then secured by tightening a nut onto the terminal. Identify the third wire, which is typically two wires with a snap-in plastic connector on the alternator end. This connector is manufactured so it may be inserted into the connector socket on the alternator one way only. If the voltage rises above or falls below 12 Volts, the alternator’s internal voltage increases or reduces power output to maintain 12 Volts to the battery and the systems of the vehicle during operation.

The second wire of the pair on Pin 2 of the alternator goes to the ignition.

One-Wire Alternators: Are They Better Or Just Easier To Hook up?

After some more research, I decided the configuration mentioned was the right one. Soldered the new pigtail onto my factory wiring, plugged the harness in, installed a brand-new battery, and I’m pumping Some of you may have read my posting a week or two ago regarding my new alternator and wiring running very hot http: Well, it seems the battery was – most likely – the culprit.

My battery was 3 years old, and had been through several complete discharges as well as a pretty serious overheating engine a month or two ago. With Arizona temps near , I had a suspicion that it was just done.

Oct 31,  · How To Solder Wires Like A Pro – Duration: Episode 1 Alternator Hook Up – Duration: homesteadprepper 88, views. AutoRestoMod Car Restoration Modification , views.

It has a rear inlet tube welded on at a right angle that connects to the external air intake via angled rubber hose, an early Ram-Air design if you will. The canister connects to the carburetor via a J-shaped hose on the engine side. This J-shaped hose clamps onto the canister cover containing the air filter. If you don’t do anything else in the way of maintanence on your Isetta, make sure you change the oil and at least clean, if not replace, the air filter on a routine basis.

The Isetta electrical system calls for 12 volt, 31 amp battery with negative ground. We have a Harley-Davidson Non-spillable sealed battery in our car. It’s H-D part number With it’s compact size, there’s no worry about fitting in the battery box or being too tall to fit under the seat. Life expectancy is in the 3 year range. You can search on motorcycle batteries and plug in BMW to see their offerings or give them a call to see what they suggest.

Some models are slightly less money than other choices but may not last as long. You will probably find that most of these types of batteries have the removeable caps to add distilled water to the cells, one more maintenance issue to deal with. Most we’ve seen also require that the electrolyte be added to the battery once you purchase it so it may not be ready to use off-the-shelf.

One item that we didn’t care for on these units was the ventilation tube.

Technical Details

Charging Conversions 3 – Externally Regulated to Internally Regulated Alternator A conversion like this has two basic pieces to it – mechanical and electrical. You need to mount the new alternator so that it’s secure and you can put a belt around it and then you need to wire it up so it actually does something when you spin it. This is a non-trivial upgrade to your vehicle. It’s not that hard, but it could take some time to get right. Don’t expect to have the car back on the road the same day you take it all apart.

This is not an afternoon job for most home “shade tree” mechanics, although some of the easier conversions can be done fairly quickly.

Since the s, alternators have been of the 3-wire type. Inspect the back and sides of the alternator to locate the two wire connectors. One of the connectors is typically a threaded bolt protruding from the back (the opposite end from the pulley) that a wire with a boot on the connecting end is snapped onto.

C , black C , blue C , black, 3 wires. Some of the wires inside these links are made BOLD. This typically means this wire is needed or very useful in a stand alone harness setup. C2 information is in these links. Info is more complete for , Later years should be similar, use circuit ‘s to compair. Around , the engines no longer had EGR, so that does away with 5 wires. The differences in the ‘s don’t matter a bit when making a harness stand alone.

Very detailed info for what to remove, keep, etc is just a few lines down, I leave all this info so you can see changes year to year if you lik.

One more step

Report Seemore answered 3 years ago I am having a similar problem right now as the battery is being drained while sitting up. In my case, I have had electronics training and I can tell you that most of these solution replies are worthless. That seems to be the problem with searching for solutions anytime now.

I have an alternator, that has a manual hook up for the wires, the one on the car has an battery wire and an plug in type for two wires, i was just wundering if this alternator can be altered as in cut the plug off and manually hook up the two wires from the plug or do i have to get one with the plug in type.

While it does have some reserve power for small accessories, the extra amperage draw created by a high-power audio system or race electronics, or lighting, etc. Luckily, a simple alternator upgrade can prevent such a catastrophe. Deciding if you need a more-powerful alternator is easy once you understand exactly what kind of power, or amperage, you need.

Amperage is defined as the maximum capacity or maximum volume of electricity an alternator is capable of producing. While many alternators have a percent to percent power reserve to handle additional accessories, this is often insufficient capacity to power high end audio systems or other high-amperage items.

For example, a typical watt stereo system draws upwards of 60 amps when cranked.

Need definitive answer – alternator harness wiring!

My power windows don’t move at all! Check the fuse on the power window relay as well as the relay itself for the windows. Also clean the contacts on the switches as noted above – the current for the passenger window passes through the driver’s side switch, so check them all. Can I switch out my 85mph speedometer with a faster one? It is for the same reason that the national speed limit was set at 55mph. However, this regulatory goal may or may not have something to do with the US government giving large amounts of money to the Chrysler Corporation to produce K-cars.

i have a ford ranger with a and when i hook up the battery it has a big draw on the battery and the washer pump and the cruise control comes on and the alternator shorts out and it wont even .

How to Change an Alternator When a vehicle’s alternator is functioning properly, it will put out between 13 and 18 AC volts that power the electronics and ignition system while recharging the battery. But, if it delivers less than 13 volts, the alternator will fail to keep the battery recharged. You can save money when you replace your alternator by doing it yourself and following the steps below.

Steps Disconnect the positive battery cable. It should be red. It will be a minimum of 2, and no more than 4, bolts depending on your make and model. Make sure the voltage regulator and pulley match up to the old one. If it does not, get the parts house to put the old pulley assembly on the new one. Be sure to check the alignment with the belt tensioner pulley. Now release the tool by putting tension on the belt. You’re helping people by reading wikiHow wikiHow’s mission is to help people learn, and we really hope this article helped you.

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